Video tutorial and pattern 

Pulsa AQUÍ para ir a la versión en español

Materials

  • 3 mm crochet hook 
  • Yarn I used: 40% acrylic 60% cotton
  • Pair of scissors
  • Wool needle
  • Silicon gun (optional) for the poop
    🔨 You can see the materials I use to make my amigurumis HERE 

Stitches used are:

  • Single crochet (sc)
  • Slip stitch (sl st)
  • Decrease (dec)
  • Increase (inc)
  • Magic ring

If you don't know how to make any of these stitches, I'll leave you the link where you can see some short video tutorials.

  • If you are left-handed, click here to go to the playlist.
  • If you are right-handed, click here to go to the playlist.
*Soon these videos will be with English subtitles

Video tutorial

Here you have access to the video tutorial whether you are left-handed or right-handed, below you have the pattern. 

You must click on the settings to activate the subtitles.


Pattern

If you want to share this pattern, please, please pass on the link to this page.


Let's start! 

DOG

Tail

Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Row 2-6: 6 sc in each row

Row 7: 6 inc (12)

Row 8: 12 inc (24)

Row 9 to 17: 24 sc in each row

Row 18: 12 dec (12). At the end, fill in until firm but not overfilled

Row 19: 6 dec (6)


Back leg 1

Row 20 to 23: 6 sc in each row

Row 24: 6 inc (12)

Row 25: 12 inc (24)

Row 26 to 38: 24 sc in each row

Row 39: 12 dec (12). At the end, fill in

Row 40: 6 dec (6)


Back leg 2

Row 41 to 44: 6 sc in each row

Row 45: 6 inc (12)

Row 46: 12 inc (24)

Row 47 to 59: 24 sc in each row

Row 60: 12 dec (12) at the end fill in

Row 61: 6 dec (6)


Body

Row 62 to 65: 6 sc in each row

Row 66: 6 inc (12)

Row 67: 12 inc (24)

Row 68 to 76: 24 sc in each row

Row 77: 12 dec (12) at the end fill in

Row 78: 6 dec (6)


Front leg 1

Row 79 to 82: 6 sc in each row

Row 83: 6 inc (12)

Row 84: 12 inc (24)

Row 85 to 97: 24 sc in each row

Row 98: 12 dec (12) at the end fill in

Row 99: 6 dec (6)


Front leg 2

Row 100 to 103: 6 sc in each row

Row 104: 6 inc (12)

Row 105: 12 inc (24)

Row 106 to 118: 24 sc in each row

Row 119: 12 dec (12) at the end fill in

Row 120: 6 dec (6)


Neck

Row 121 to 124: 6 sc in each row

Row 125: 6 inc (12)

Row 126: 12 inc (24)

Row 127 to 132: 24 sc in each row

Row 133: 12 dec (12) and fill in

Row 134: 6 dec (6)


Ear 1

Row 135 to 138: 6 sc in each row

Row 139: 6 inc (12)

Row 140: 12 inc (24)

Row 141 to 149: 24 sc in each row

Row 150: 12 dec (12) at the end fill in

Row 151: 6 dec (6)


Ear 2

Row 152 to 155: 6 sc in each row

Row 156: 6 inc (12)

Row 157: 12 inc (24)

Row 158 to 166: 24 sc in each row

Row 167: 12 dec (12) at the end fill in

Row 168: 6 dec (6)


Nose

Row 169 to 172: 6 sc in each row

Row 173: 6 inc (12)

Row 174: 12 inc (24)

Row 175 to 180: 24 sc in each row

Row 181: 12 dec (12) at the end fill in

Row 182: 6 dec (6)

Row 183: 6 inc (12p) and 1 sl st in the next stitch

Cut the thread, leaving a bit of thread to sew the hole, and the filling does not come out. With a wool needle, stitch a few stitches loosely.

Finish with 1 knot and passing the needle through the body to cut off the excess thread


Assembly

Step 1: Begin by bringing the ears together and passing the nose behind through the gap between both

Step 2: We continue by bringing the front legs together and passing the body behind through the gap between both

Step 3: We bring the hind legs together and pass the tail behind through the gap between both


It's normal for it not to stand on its own unless we sew the neck and the tail

I'm going to make some stitches with a woolen needle. I start at the neck and making the stitches as low as possible on both the neck and the body so that the thread will be hide.

Finish with 1 knot and passing the needle through the neck to cut the excess thread

We also sew the tail to the body, as we did with the neck.

Finish with 1 knot and passing the needle through the body to cut off the excess thread.


When finished, cover the stick with green yarn, securing the thread at the beginning with glue and also at the end.

The leaves are placed at the height we like best and we also use the silicone gun to glue them.


POOP 

Before we begin — This pattern is designed to join the 3 pieces with a hot glue gun. If you don't have one or prefer to sew the pieces, you don't need to make the last round of the  pieces 1 and 2. When gluing, it's necessary to have more fabric, hence that additional round. 


Piece 1 (The one that goes on the bottom)

Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Row 2: 6 inc (12)

Row 3: 1 sc - 1 inc (18)

Row 4: 2 sc - 1 inc (24)

Row 5: 3 sc - 1 inc (30)

Row 6 to 8: 30 sc in each round.

Row 9: 3 sc - 1 dec (24)

Row 10: 2 sc - 1 dec (18)

Row 11: 1 sc - 1 dec (12) and stuff. Do not overstuff; otherwise, the base will be too round, and the idea is to make it flatter from more to less. You can put a small piece of cardboard at the base if you want it very flat, but if you control the amount of stuffing, it's not necessary.

Round 12: 6 dec (6)


Piece 2 (The piece in the middle)

Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Row 2: 6 inc (12)

Row 3: 1 sc - 1 inc (18)

Row 4: 2 sc - 1 inc (24)

Row 5 and 6: 24 sc in each round.

Row 7: 2 sc - 1 dec (18)

Row 8: 1 sc - 1 dec (12) and stuff. Just like piece 1, do not overstuff.

Row 9:  6 dec (6)


Piece 3 (The top piece)

Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Row 2: 6 inc (12)

Row 3: 1 sc - 1 inc (18)

Row 4 to 6: 18 sc in each round

Row 7: 1 sc - 1 dec (12) and stuff.

Row 8: 6 dec (6)

Row 9: With a yarn needle, pass the needle through the outside of the 6 stitches and secure with 1 knot right at the top to create a little point. Thread the yarn through the piece without pulling too hard, so the knot doesn't hide, and then cut the excess yarn.

You just need to assemble the 3 pieces as you have decided. If you use the hot glue gun and any piece doesn't stay centered or is twisted, you can unglue it without damaging the fabric by heating the glue with a hot air dryer.



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